1/4 cup red wine
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 (11/2 to 13/4 pound) flank steak
4 cloves garlic
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup crumbled fresh goat cheese

In a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag, combine the wine, lemon juice, soy sauce and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper and shake to combine. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and set aside.

Place the meat on a work surface with a short end facing you. Using a long, thin knife, cut meat in half horizontally from side to side, stopping about 1/2 inch short of second side so that you can open cut steak like a book. Place opened steak in bag with marinade, seal and refrigerate for 1 hour, turning once.

Preheat a gas or charcoal grill to medium. If using charcoal, mound briquettes toward one side of grill.

Place the garlic on a cutting board. With a heavy knife, chop and smear it to a paste. Place garlic paste in a small bowl and add the parsley, thyme, lemon zest and salt and the remaining pepper and oil.

Remove steak from marinade and pat dry. Discard marinade. Lay meat on a work surface so what was a seam lies horizontally and meat's grain runs from left to right. Cover meat with filling, leaving a 1-inch border at top. Sprinkle on the goat cheese. Working from bottom end, roll steak up like a jelly roll. Thread toothpicks along edge to seal roll closed.

Grill meat over direct heat, turning it every 3 minutes to brown it on all sides, for 9 minutes in all. If using a gas grill, turn off center-row burners. If using charcoal, move meat to grill's cooler side. Cover and grill meat over indirect heat, starting to check at 8 minutes and removing steak when a thermometer inserted in center registers 130 degrees for medium-rare or 140 degrees for medium. Let steak stand for 10 minutes, then cut crosswise into slices.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

— Recipe adapted from "The Essential Best Foods Cookbook: 225 Irresistible Recipes Featuring the Healthiest and Most Delicious Foods," by Dana Jacobi.