Nov 21, 2009
 
Going Wild
Fall and winter bring otters, whales, pinnipeds and butterflies to California's wild central coast
A sea otter in Elkhorn Slough

The summer crowds have migrated back to the cities, leaving 100 miles of central California coast wide open for curious Oregonians who are looking for adventure. This stretch of coast features awesome beauty and animal exhibitions straight out of National Geographic. Armed with a camera, you'll have the opportunity to capture wild spectacle that include spouting whales, birthing elephant seals and rafts of sea otters.

Here are five of the best locations to get close to some of these spectacular coastal creatures.

1. Elkhorn Slough, Moss Landing

The cuddly sea otter has all but disappeared from the Oregon Coast, but along this stretch of Pacific shore, otters still congregate in impressive numbers. You can rent a kayak and paddle your way into the Elkhorn Slough for an eye-to-eye encounter with this true charmer of the sea. The otters here are as curious as we are, and they'll sometimes approach to just a few arm lengths away. You literally can see their adorable button-noses twitch. Mid-fall through winter, large rafts of males (up to 30 or more) hang out together and dive for clams. December through March, look for otter pups on their mothers' bellies or swimming alongside. The kayaks are the "tourist" kind and paddling the slough is so easy your grandmother could do it. It's a moment with frolicsome mammals you won't soon forget.

Contact: 831-728-5939; www.elkhornslough.org

2. Monterey Bay, Monterey


There is nothing quite like being just feet from a cetacean the size of a city bus. Monterey Bay Whale Watch leads gray whale watching tours from mid-December to May. Tours run twice daily. These behemoths are not always easy to spot, but even just a glimpse makes the pricey ticket worth it. The boat stays within the bay, so you probably won't have to contend with monster 15-foot swells (good for sensitive stomachs).

Contact: 831-375-4658; www.montereybaywhalewatch.com

3. Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary, Pacific Grove

Dubbed "Butterfly Town, USA," Pacific Grove is a postcard-perfect site for thousands of these winged creatures. How these fragile insects navigate and soar through vast, empty skies just boggles the mind. They have never made the journey previously, and by the time a butterfly's life is done, it will have made the annual migration only once. As they jockey for position, the Monarchs will form large clusters on tree branches. When a large ensemble takes flight, it's an overload of flickering orange and yellow. If you're lucky, one will mistake you for a landing paddock. The butterflies take up residence here from mid-October to March.

Contact: 831-648-5716; www.pacificgrove.org


4. Point Lobos State Reserve, Carmel

There is no better place in all of California to see raucous sea lions and plump harbor seals. The jagged rocks, frothy surf and rugged headlands off Carmel form an idyllic marine-mammal habitat. Walk the trail to Moss Cove and check out the rotund harbor seals basking on rocks. Winter produces big waves, and when a ton of wave meets an 80-pound seal, the seal loses. The wall of water knocks them off the rocks and into the churning sea. So cute! Stroll over to Sea Lion Point to watch dozens of sea lions scramble up the large rock and claim their favorite pointy perch.

These fin-footed entertainers will keep you amused for hours.

Contact: 831-624-4909; www.pt-lobos.parks.state.ca.us

5. Piedras Blancas, near San Simeon

The three beaches here set the stage for one of the few remaining wildlife spectacles on North America's mainland coasts. Each winter, nearly 10,000 elephant seals gather here to breed and give birth, and the exhibition is nothing short of remarkable. These jovial giants offer a unique display of raw nature. Battles for dominance among adult males are powerful and vicious. Females engage in boisterous chatter and will stop at nothing to protect their offspring. And juvenile males learn quickly that trying to sneak in a little romance with the girls does not bode well with the big beachmasters. Seal numbers peak in mid-January to March. Most births happen in January. February triggers the need to mate and fight.


Contact: 805-924-1628; www.elephantseal.org

And while you're out there, check out two of central California's most stunning coastal scenes.

Rocky Point Restaurant, 10 miles south of Carmel. The rugged shore just below the restaurant is the quintessential California coast. Contact: 831-624-2933, www.rocky-point.com.

McWay Falls Overlook Trail, in Julia Pfeifer Burns State Park, 37 miles south of Carmel, leads to falls that drop 80 feet onto golden sand. Continue on the wooden boardwalk to its end and gaze upon turquoise water so exquisite that the Caribbean and Hawaiian tourism boards will wish you hadn't. Contact: 831-667-2315; www.parks.ca.gov


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