1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon finely minced sweet onion
1 teaspoon peeled and finely shredded, fresh ginger
2 teaspoons chili-garlic sauce
1 teaspoon black bean-garlic sauce
1 teaspoon ponzu sauce (a citrus-seasoned soy sauce; Kikkoman makes one), or regular soy sauce
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1/4 cup chopped green onions (optional)

Heat the olive and sesame oils in a heavy, large skillet over medium high heat. Add the sweet onion and ginger and saute for 1 minute. Stir in the chili-garlic sauce, black bean-garlic sauce, ponzu sauce and wine. Simmer until reduced by half, which will take about 5 minutes. Whisk in the heavy cream and bring to a boil. Remove from heat. (Sauce may be prepared to this point up to 24 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

When ready to serve, heat reduced sauce over medium-high heat and bring it to a simmer. Turn burner to low, then whisk in the chilled pieces of butter 1 or 2 at a time. Keep whisking steadily until all butter has been incorporated. Whisk in the green onions, if using. Keep sauce over very low heat (or in top of a double boiler set over hot water), or sauce will separate.

Makes about 1 cup.