Hard to drink just one Barbera

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2009 Oddero Barbera d'Alba; from Italy's Piedmont region; costs about $19; serve with salumi, grilled sausages, chops, pasta dishes.

Piedmontese winemakers aren't drinking Barolo and Barbaresco every day; they're drinking Barbera. And this Barbera d'Alba from the Barolo house Oddero (founded in 1878) is a beauty. It's everything it should be: ruby red, lush and velvety, with soft tannins and the bright taste of cherries and dark berries. Drink it with salumi, grilled sausages and chops, with lusty pasta dishes. And make sure you have a spare bottle. It's hard to drink just one.

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