WINE OF THE WEEK: 2011 Patrick Piuze Petit Chablis; from France's Burgundy region; costs about $19; serve with oysters, steamed clams and whole, roasted fish.

What a pretty Chablis from young negociant and winemaker Patrick Piuze, a French Canadian who stopped on his travels to work the harvest in Burgundy 11 years ago and basically never went home again.

This 2011 Petit Chablis, a very dry chardonnay made from grapes grown at higher elevations or on mixed limestone soils in the Chablis region of northern Burgundy, is crisp and tightly woven.

It is fermented with indigenous yeasts, a lovely bottle to drink with a platter of oysters, steamed clams or a whole fish baked under a salt crust.