WINE OF THE WEEK: 2009 Dierberg Chardonnay; from California's central coast; costs about $25; serve with grilled fish, steamed shellfish, chicken fricassee and sushi.

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2009 Dierberg Chardonnay; from California's central coast; costs about $25; serve with grilled fish, steamed shellfish, chicken fricassee and sushi.

This is a beauty of a chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley, elegant and minerally, with some sass to it and a bright acidity that sends you back to the glass for another sip. It's brilliant as an aperitif but ready to escort grilled swordfish, steamed shellfish or even a chicken fricassee to the table. Try it with fried chicken or sweetbreads, too. And certainly with sushi.