WINE OF THE WEEK: 2011 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly; from France's Beaujolais; costs about $23; serve with roast chicken, braised lamb shanks, grilled sausages or a pastrami sandwich.

This is the latest from the oldest estate on Mont Brouilly in Beaujolais, built in the 15th century. But that wouldn't mean anything if the wine weren't so well-made and delicious. Chateau Thivin, still run by the Geoffray family, who purchased the estate at the end of the 19th century, has vineyards planted with mostly 50-year-old gamay vines, one reason these wines have such character.

With its bright fruit, luscious texture and all-around geniality, Thivin's Cote de Brouilly goes down very easy.