New Italian white wants seafood

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2011 La Ginestraia Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente; from Liguria, Italy; costs $17 to $20; serve with shrimp and other shellfish, grilled, whole fish and sushi.

Pigato is one of the little-known Italian wines sommeliers love to surprise guests with. This one is terrific: lithe and minerally, with an earthiness that plays well against an ever-so-slight sweetness. In short, this lovely white wine from Liguria has a presence.

La Ginestraia is a new venture for Marco Brangero of Brangero in Diano d'Alba in Piedmont, already well-known for his Dolcetto d'Alba. The grapes for La Ginestraia come from a vineyard in Ortovero, seven miles inland from the Mediterranean, that dates from the 1700s. Pigato wants food. It's lovely with clams in parsley sauce, but it would be wonderful with gambas al ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce), fish chowder, steamed mussels or a whole grilled fish. And, of course, sushi.

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