WINE OF THE WEEK: 2002 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia "Vina Gravonia"; from La Rioja region of Spain; costs $25 to $30; serve with lobster, crab, shellfish, roast poultry.
Note the vintage: 2002 is the latest release of white Rioja from the legendary house of R. Lopez de Heredia, founded 135 years ago and still one of the benchmark estates in Rioja. If you've never tasted a white Rioja before, this is the one to try first. The color is golden straw, with a scent of hazelnut drifting over the glass. Dry, but with rich complexities, Vina Gravonia is unique in the world of white wine, a compelling expression of the Viura grape. Drink it with lobster, Dungeness crab, steamed mussels and clams, even a roast turkey.