It's now or never for big zins

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2010 Renwood Zinfandel "Premier Old Vine"; from Amador County, California; costs $17 to $20; serve with roasts, braised meats and hearty stews.

If you're hankering to drink a big, old-vine California zin, it's now or never. You need a chill in the air — and a big piece of beef braising on the stove. These intense, almost syrupy wines aren't for everyone, but if you love them, you'll love this example from Renwood in Amador County in California Gold Country. Renwood is a specialist in zin, making half a dozen different bottlings. The Premier Old Vine is the least expensive and a bargain for the quality. The 2010 has deep blackberry and bramble flavors, ripe tannins and a velvety mouth feel. Open a bottle to enjoy with that braised or roasted beef, venison or a hearty stew.

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