Rich, full-bodied red needs bold food

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2010 Domaine de la Mordoree Lirac "Cuvee de la Reine des Bois"; from France's Southern Rhone Valley; costs from $25 to $37; serve with daube de boeuf, chicken with truffles and grilled pork chops.

Lirac may not have the cachet of nearby Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but it can pay off to turn up a bottle of Domaine de la Mordoree's exquisite "Cuvee de la Reine des Bois."

It's worth seeking out any year, but the 2010 may be the best the domaine has ever made — juicy, dark and wild, tasting of ripe berries and plums that drip down your chin. Super-rich and super-concentrated, this blend of equal parts grenache, mourvedre and syrah needs bold food: definitely daube de boeuf with black olives, chicken with black truffles tucked under the skin or thick, grilled pork chops.

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