Alsatian white balances ripeness, acidity

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2010 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Blanc; from Alsace, France; costs about $22; serve with tarte flambe, seafood salad and poached salmon.

The Alsace estate Zind-Humbrecht can trace its wine-growing history back to the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century. Who wouldn't covet any of their stunning grand crus? But a Tokay Pinot Gris from Clos Saint Urbain from Rangen de Thann, say, is strictly a special-occasion wine.

The estate's entry-level 2010 Pinot Blanc, however, is very affordable, and it's a perfect white for everyday drinking. Scented with flowers and peaches, it's crisp yet with ripe fruit and a thrilling complexity. Versatile with food, it can go from a tarte flambe or seafood salad to poached salmon or grilled Santa Barbara spot prawns. And it has a special affinity for Asian and fusion cuisines and the crazy-quilt of flavors that make up California cuisine.

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