Pinot graceful example from Sonoma coast

WINE OF THE WEEK: 2010 Hirsch Vineyards 'The Bohan-Dillon' Pinot Noir; from California's Sonoma Coast; costs $28 to $38; serve with roast chicken, lamb chops and Chinese chicken salad

David Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards has produced some renowned pinot noirs from his sprawling Sonoma Coast estate. They're very good. And very expensive. But the estate also makes a second label called "The Bohan-Dillon," which is much more affordable. About one-third of the fruit comes from Hirsch Vineyards, mostly younger vines, and the remainder from neighboring estates. The Bohan-Dillon is made exactly the same way as Hirsch Vineyards' higher-priced pinots.

The 2010 is selling for about $28 if you can still find it; the 2011 is a little more expensive. Both are graceful examples of Sonoma Coast pinot noir, with a soft, silky texture, a backbone of acidity coupled with a tangy minerality and slow-ripened fruit that tastes of plums and dark cherries. Ready to drink now (or cellar for a couple years), the Bohan-Dillon is brilliant with a simple roast chicken, grilled lamb chops, roasted root vegetables or a Chinese chicken salad.

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