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December 14, 2005

Winery’s equipment means a better taste

By CLEVE TWITCHELL
For the Mail Tribune

When Weisinger’s 2005 vintage wines start coming on the market, you might want to try some, especially if you still have some 2004 bottles around for comparison. That’s because the Ashland winery installed some new winemaking equipment this past summer. It’s designed to produce wines that are "smoother and more velvety," says winemaker Eric Weisinger.

The technology involved in winemaking has changed a lot in the last 20 years, so Weisinger felt it was time to update.

The new equipment includes:

  • A sorting table. As a belt gradually moves grapes across the table, four people, two on each side, pull out leaves, stems, unripe grapes and anything else that might detract from the eventual wine’s flavor.

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  • An Italian-made de-stemmer. It basically just de-stems without crushing most of the grapes. The equipment it replaced would crush and de-stem at the same time with the result that some seeds and stems would be caught in the crush, sometimes imparting bitter tannins, Weisinger says.

  • A positive-displacement pump. It is quite a bit larger than the winery’s old one and can move the de-stemmed grapes with limited breakage.

  • Four stainless steel tanks, for greater temperature control.

    The winery also installed new floors and is using oak barrels from Hungary and elsewhere in Eastern Europe, similar to those from France but less expensive.

    "I want to stay as close to the front of the technology curve as possible," says Weisinger.

    He feels that the overall quality of Southern Oregon wines is improving dramatically, for three reasons: Higher quality grapes grown by improved methods, greater winemaking knowledge and use of better equipment.

    I had an opportunity to make a barrel-tasting comparison of two reds — cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc — from two different years, 2004 (before the new equipment) and 2005 (after it). In each case, the 2004 and 2005 were made with grapes from the same vineyard — Pheasant Hill for the cab, Gold for the franc.

    The 2005 had been in the barrel for only a month but you could already taste a difference. The 2004 reds should be out next fall, the 2005 reds in 2007 or 2008, Weisinger says.

    Weisinger’s continues to make close to 10 different wines and is adding some new ones. A cabernet sauvignon rose is due out in midsummer and a port is in the barrels and may be ready by Christmas 2007. The winery has also planted 2½ acres of tempranillo.

    Visitors to the winery’s tasting room can sample up to nine wines — three whites, the rest reds. One of the best whites is the 2004 Semillon-Chardonnay, a pleasant dry blend.

    Among the reds I especially like a new release, the 2003 Claret. It’s a blend of 62 percent merlot and 38 percent cabernet franc. The result is a robust, hearty wine.

    The claret is new but another blend the winery has made for years is Petite Pompadour. The 2002 release is 46 percent cabernet franc, 44 percent merlot, 8 percent cabernet sauvignon and 2 percent malbec.

    And a special wine sold only at the tasting room is the 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a rich wine that retails for $45. Weisinger’s whites are generally $16 a bottle. Reds other than the reserve range from $19 to $28.

    A taste of one wine is complimentary. If you want to taste them all, it’s $3, plus another $2 if you include the reserve cabernet.

    MOST OF US MIGHT balk at spending between $20 and $30 on a bottle of wine, unless it’s a special occasion.

    Well, Christmas, Hanukkah and New Year’s are special occasions, so it’s a good time of year to consider buying some upscale Rogue Valley wine to give as gifts.

    An earlier column mentioned local wines pre-screened for serving to a group of visiting wine writers in mid-September. Several are in the $20-$30 bracket, among them Daisy Creek 2004 Viognier, Del Rio 2004 Viognier, Del Rio 2002 Merlot, Trium 2003 Grower’s Cuvee, Valley View 2001 Syrah, Devitt 2003 Cabernet Franc and Devitt 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon.

    Prefer the $15-$20 range? Then you could consider RoxyAnn 2004 Pinot Gris, Trium 2004 Pinot Gris, Paschal 2002 Chardonnay, Valley View 2004 Anna Maria Chardonnay, EdenVale Late Harvest Viognier, Daisy Creek 2003 Merlot, Weisinger’s Mescolare and Velocity 2003 Velo.

    ARTHUR’S, THE RESTAURANT AT the Eagle Point Golf Course has a good Northwest oriented wine list, including 11 reds, 10 whites plus a few champagnes and dessert wines, from $16 a bottle and $4.75 a glass. Thirteen are available by the glass. Only four are from the Rogue area, but there is a good Oregon representation overall.

    I had Eola Hills Chardonnay with salad and Valley View Merlot with some first-rate prime rib, each notable and each $4.75.

    ALSO SAMPLED RECENTLY:

  • Kendall-Jackson 2003 Vintner’s Reserve Syrah. A rich and flavorful red for only $12, but it needs to breathe for a while.

  • Kendall-Jackson 2003 Vintner’s Reserve Zinfandel. Another $12 red. It’s a good, middle-of-the-road wine - nothing special but then most good zins cost a lot more.

    Cleve Twitchell is a retired Mail Tribune editor and columnist. E-mail him at clevelinda@msn.com



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