April 26, 2006
When it comes to oats, whole grain is the whole truth
By REBECCA WOOD
for the Mail Tribune
Whole grains are the buzz. They protect against heart disease, cancer and diabetes. Besides, they taste much better than processed grains.
So what exactly is a whole grain? Heres some grain savvy to help you cut through the confusing marketing jargon.
You can rely upon your common sense to discern the difference between a whole grain and a refined grain. Then, making healthy and delicious choices is easy.
Imagine planting some whole oats, Quaker Oats and Cheerios. The whole oats, with germ and hull intact, will grow and flourish. Indeed, whole grains are seeds. Whereas, the two processed oat
products will rot.
Once whole grains are flaked, rolled, puffed or milled into flour, theyre no longer viable seeds. They wont grow. So even though oat breakfast cereals hot or cold are
marketed as "whole grain," your eye tells you that theyre processed grain products.
The germ in all seeds contains the spark of life. The grains skin-like bran protects its germ from damaging light and oxygen. Once germinated, its starchy endosperm provides nutrients until
the sprout can set leaves and root.
But, when processed, a grains protective bran no longer encircles its fatty acid-rich germ, and the oils start to oxidize and, in time, will become rancid.
Rancidity is a problem with all whole-grain products.
If youve some rolled oats on hand, taste them. If theyve a flat and cardboard-like flavor with a slightly bitter aftertaste, theyre past prime. Compost them.
Note: rancidity is not a problem with degermed grains. This includes degermed corn, white rice and refined wheat products (white flour, semolina pasta and most couscous and bulgur). Because the
oil-containing germ is removed, these products have a shelf life of many years.
Besides rancidity problems with processed whole grains, theres a second problem with all processed grains. You metabolize a grain thats broken into pieces more quickly than a whole
grain. So grits, flakes, puffs and all flour products are higher on the glycemic index and therefore contribute to blood-sugar irregularities. Thus, to help deter diabetes, favor whole grains
over processed grains.
When purchasing a whole-grain product like rolled oats, buy it from a store with a fast turn-over and plan to use it within a few months. Or store it in the refrigerator or freezer for four to
six months. Whole oats have their bran intact and store well in a dry, dark, cool cupboard for a year or more.
Today, starting with oats, Ill periodically feature a whole grain in this column. Getting to know grain staples in their whole, intact form will expand your dining repertoire and support
your health and dining pleasure.
Because oats contain a higher proportion of fat and protein than most other grains, they impart stamina and warmth and are considered excellent cold-weather fare. Oats help stabilize blood sugar,
reduce cholesterol, regulate the thyroid and soothe the nervous and digestive systems.
Cultivated oats are native to northern central Asia but found a permanent home in the British Isles, Scandinavia and other cold, damp climates. That the Celts staple grain, or daily bread,
was oats is reflected by the number of their oat dishes, including aran isenach, bannock, broonie, atholl brose, farl, skirilie, sowans, haver, struan micheil, hodgils and kaaka.
The Romans conquered the British but found the wild Scotsmen invincible. When researching my book, "The Splendid Grain," one old account I read attributed the highlanders prowess
and guerrilla-like mobility to their staple food. Each highlander carried a pouch of oat meal, and dinner was as quick as mixing sea water with the meal to form a cake that, in minutes, baked on
a hot stone over an open fire.
What about Cheerios? Those little Os were once whole, unadulterated oats. But then they were ground into flour; mixed with corn starch, sugar, water and preservatives; and forced, under extreme
pressure, through a Teflon-coated die to produce their characteristic shape.
In comparison to whole grains, cold breakfast cereals provide little energy and reduced nutrient bioavailability. Oat groats are sweet and almost meaty, with a satisfying, moist but chewy
texture. They make a great breakfast and, just like brown rice, can be used as a grain entrée or in a casserole, soup, stir-fry or croquettes.
Steamed Oat Groats
1 cup whole oat groats
1¼ cups water or stock
¼ teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter or sesame oil
½ cup toasted sunflower seeds or chopped walnuts
Toast the groats in a saucepan or wok over medium-high heat, stirring constantly for about four minutes, or until the oats are aromatic and a shade darker.
Combine the water, salt and butter in a small saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Add the oats, lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed and the
oats are tender. Remove from the heat and let stand for 10 minutes with the lid on. Fluff with a fork and serve hot. Garnish with the sunflower seeds. Makes 3 cups.
VARIATIONS: For a creamy breakfast cereal, add groats to 1¾ cups cold water and cook for one hour, or until the liquid is absorbed and the oats are creamy and tender. For savory
oats, add and cook 2 minced garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon minced rosemary. For sweet oats, add 2 tablespoons raisins, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 teaspoon orange zest.
Rebecca Wood is an award-wining cookbook author and local cooking teacher. To ask a question, find a recipe, see her class schedule or post your comment about this article, visit:
www.RebeccaWood.com.