I just walked out to check the garden and it was 42 degrees outside! Brrrrrr. It's getting too close to the end of the season for my taste. I thought that I would take a little time to ask for your impressions of this year's garden season as we near the end of the warm season crops.
Most gardeners that I have spoken with say that this year's tomato crop, while not a failure, was not as good as last year as far as quality was concerned. Many claim that while their tomatoes were lovely, albeit a bit late, they just didn't measure up as far as taste is concerned. How were yours?
Mine were a bit on the indistinguishable side. Other than the one heirloom variety I grew (Black Krim), you couldn't tell one fruit from another. I grew Celebrity, Goliath, La Roma II, and Super Fantastic. I had determined to grow varieties I had never tried before. They were all good. Not a one of them was a standout, except for the Krim.
The Goliath was not goliath. It was average to small in size. Disappointing? Not really, as I don't really care for huge tomatoes. I look for intensity of flavor, not how close I can come to growing a basketball. La Roma II was like a regular Roma, except on steroids. Quite dry and firm, it's fine for paste and isn't bad for fresh eating, but you wouldn't walk a mile to go get one. But i do like the manageable size of the plant. Celebrity has borne well. Quite a few fruits. Good quality, I would grow it again to see if it would get sweeter in another year. The Super Fantastic turned out to be a monster plant. I trimmed it at 6 feet tall and it has regrown up to 2 feet past that point. Lots of very large fruit. I don't know if I'll grow it again just 'cause it takes so much room.
And the winner is: Sun Gold cherry tomato. We grew it in a container for an early start and I just went outside and picked another handful. I wish I had kept a count on how many tomatoes we have picked from that plant. It has to be many hundreds. Always sweet. Always ready. Yes, we will grow it again. Forever. It tastes more like a tomato than any other. If I had to complain, I would say that the skins were a little thicker this year and maybe the fruits were a little smaller than in years past. But that would be nit picking.
I've told you how our crop was, now share your varieties and results with me. I'd love to get some ideas of different varieties to try in my garden next year. So come on, let everyone in on what grows well for you and what didn't. That way we'll all have something to dream about over the too long winter while we're eating our kale!
I almost had a breakdown yesterday. It hit me that we probably have only five or six weeks left of tomato season, not counting any that we store. But fresh, ripe-from-the-vine tomatoes will soon be over. And no matter how much I am sating myself now, come January I will be deep in the throes of withdrawal with no end in sight.
With this in mind, I thought I better get this posted for all addicts like myself to enjoy the fruits as long as we can. If you have any hints or tips to keep the vines going as long as possible, please post them here for all to see. We all will appreciate it!
Hi Stan,
Last year, I think it was, you mentioned a trick to keep tomatoes producing after about now when they slow/stop blooming. Could you remind me what you recommended? (My arsenal of amendments includes chicken manure, rock phosphate, blood meal, bone meal, soybean meal, liquid kelp, and Alaska fish and Morbloom fertilizers, but haven't used any for awhile.) For some reason nitrogen sticks in my head as your recommendation, but that wouldn't seem to make sense ... would it be morbloom? . . . to make more blooms? Or does it just need a reinvigoration with nitrogen?
Thanks for your wonderful column and radio show!
Anne
Anne,
There really is no trick involved - it's just a matter of keeping complete nutritional levels up, including nitrogen. I use liquid fertilizers now for their fast results and shun the dry types. Maybe that's the "trick" you're trying to remember.
Nitrogen helps hastens maturity. Phosphorus produces blooms - no need to do that now, as any energy going into flower production will be too late to produce harvestable tomatoes after the 15th of September. In fact, that's a good date to start removing any flowers that are forming. Potassium is an enabler - helps overall health and condition of the plant.
Stress should be lowering now that the days are shorter and nights are cooler. That helps keep the plants on track.
I hope this helps with your gardening "magic."
Stan
I hope your garden continues to produce. Liquid fish fertilizer has really moved my pole beans into another burst of blooms and fruit. Now, if only the cantaloupes will take advantage of this late hot weather! I'm always wishing..........
September is finally here! What a great month - full of tomatoes, warm (sometimes hot) days and cool nights. It is such a great month to plant trees, shrubs, perennials, all but the heat-loving plants which we plant in spring.
With the return of cooler weather, the lawn comes back to our attention. It is time to fertilize again. Whether you are using synthetic or organic fertilizers, now is the time to apply after all the watering of summertime. And there are a few other things to do as witnessed by the following question:
Could you answer some questions for me about aerating and dethatching my lawn?
I can see that my lawn has some definite areas of thatch buildup and my whole lawn has looked dry all summer even though I have given it the recommended amount of water and fertilizer (organic Dr. Earth). So I was thinking about dethatching, but a landscaper advised against it in the fall because it would promote growth and to wait until spring.
Q1. I planted the lawn myself a couple of years ago and in my research everything I came across said that for our area, fall is the best time to plant. So based on this, it intuitively seems that now would be the best time to dethatch and then overseed. What do you recommend?
Q2. I would also like to aerate. If I was to dethatch, does the order in which I dethatch and aerate matter? Again, intuitively it would seem to make sense to dethatch first and then aerated because the dethatching would clear out the debris which would provide a cleaner area for the aerating to penatrate the ground more effectively. Any recommendations on this?
Q3. It's not practical for me to do the work myself. Therefore, do you have any recommendations for what I should be looking for (things to ask) from a landscaper/lawn service company about what is involved in doing the work?
Thanks Stan and much regards, John
John,
Either season is fine as long as you get the work done early enough before the onset of cold in fall and before the heat of summer. It can be difficult in spring to not have soil that is too wet to be worked. If you wouldn't till because it's too wet, don't aerate. All things being equal, early spring might be just a tad more preferable as all lawns start off pretty well and recovery is fast in spring.
Dethatch first, then aerate. Rake up the removed thatch and pick up all cores.
Ask landscapers whether or not they will fill the holes left by core aerating with material that will not compact. i.e., sand, compost, etc. It sounds like you want to be organic in your lawn care, so be sure that they won't be applying synthetic fertilizers for a quick green up. Then, find out what caused the thatch so quickly in the first place! You don't want to be repeating the mistakes that caused the thatch in the first place.
Good luck!
That gives you something to do! Since I don't have a lawn, I'll just sit back and watch - that is, if you don't mind! Until next time.
'Tis the season to start thinking of mulch. Of course, you likely have kept up with your mulch through the summer to conserve water, keep the soil cooler and to suppress weed growth, but we will soon be reaping an abundance of free material in the form of pine needles and fallen leaves. It's not too early to prepare for the onslaught and decide how to handle this year's bounty.
I thought a question regarding mulching materials would be appropriate. Maybe I'm rushing the season, but after using last year's wonderful leaf mold, I can't wait to start gathering for next year.
Stan,We recently purchased a chipper/shredder and have been doing major cleanup on our property (30 acres). My question is how long do I have to wait before I can use this as a mulch (combination of fir/cedar/madrone/oak/pine) on my flower/veggie beds? We've used a lotfor pathways but I really wanted to use it as a mulch.Thanks, Dola
Dola,
I would wait approximately as long as it takes to read this.
OK, go ahead and use it.
There's no problem with using fresh material as mulch. If you wanted to incorporate it as a soil additive, I would advise you to add nitrogen to the soil. But sitting on top of the ground it doesn't draw enough nitrogen from the soil to be a problem.
If you would like, just to be on the safe side and in case I don't know what I'm talking about, when you are through spreading the material fertilize it just as you would a lawn with high-nitrogen slow-release lawn food. Then you're covered for any eventuality.
If you have any leftovers just drop it by the house here. It sounds like good stuff!
Good luck,
How do you plan to incorporate leaves in your garden? Do you compost them? Store them in garbage bags until next spring? Shred them and apply them as a mulch this year? Or do you have other ways of using them? Let me know so we can help people use them and not waste them!
I'm always glad to get questions about plants that aren't in season. Because here in Southern Oregon it's almost always the season for planting. Even in the heat of summer plants will thrive if given the proper watering regimen after planting. Don't let the dog days of summer confine you to the lawn chair. There are plenty of cool morning hours to get some planting done.
Speaking of planting.....it's time to get many of our fall and winter garden plants started. My only problem is finding the room to grow things! The garden is so full that space is at a premium right now. I think it's time to build some new raised beds for winter crops. I better get busy!
Here's a question from one of my favorite people over the years. A dedicated gardener, she is constantly involved in some project:
Hi! Stan,
What can you please tell me about rhubarb? Is it worth planting as a producer?
Would right now be an advantage to waiting till next spring?
Does it like hot sun? I'm thinking West exposure right next to my stucco house.
The Garden Shoppe next to Thunderbird's is the only one that has it in the 1gal size.
Thank you for your expertise.
GiGi
Gigi,
I've grown rhubarb with varying success in different locations. Rhubarb does not like hot weather! I would stay away from that western exposure/reflected heat scenario. I favor full sun 'til mid-afternoon when the searing heat will wilt those big leaves.
A single rhubarb plant doesn't provide many stalks. If you like all the things you can make with it, I suggest at least three plants.
There is a huge advantage to planting a started plant now versus waiting for crowns in late winter. Now is preferable, but you’ll pay a premium for container grown plants versus bareroot stock in February. But you'll easily be at least a year to 2 years ahead by planting now.
Rhubarb loves rich, well-drained, slightly acid soil fortified with plenty of well-rotted or composted manure. Feed the plants in late winter just before growth commences and then again in summer.
It's a beautiful plant to grow when it does well. If you can meet its requirements, it will give you delicious eating. Just don't eat any part of the plant other than the stalks; it is highly poisonous!
Good luck and I hope this helps a little.
Hi, once again. With the recent perfect weather, my garden is happily growing. Not without problems, mind you, but without a lot of heat-related stress. We harvested our first full grown Asian cucumber yesterday and what a treat it was! Firm, crisp and full of flavor. Once more the reason for gardening and doing all this work became crystal clear. You can't get that freshness anywhere except in your own garden.
This time we have a couple of questions that cover the practical (weeds) and the anticipation (beautiful flowers) and planning aspect of gardening. I hope you enjoy them and if you have any thoughts on the matters, just chime on in. It's quick, easy and relatively painless to add your two or three cents' worth! I hope to hear from you soon.
I'm landscaping a new garden area, which is in full sun. I would like to plant some phlox but is it possible to grow it in Grants Pass and if so which varieties should I consider?
Thank you, Melissa
Melissa,
Which type of phlox do you wish to grow? There is the groundcover type -- subulata -- or the fragrant flowering type -- paniculata -- and there is annual phlox -- drummundii -- you'll have to let me know what your interest is.
I'm considering the phlox-paniculata since I need something tall. If you have any other suggestion besides phlox I'd appreciate it.
Phlox has a tendency to cross-pollinate; therefore, seedling varieties are unreliable as to flower color. You'll have to buy named selections that are proven to come true from clumps of roots. This makes them a bit more expensive than seed-grown perennials. If you enjoy them, they are worth the extra money. If not, they are expensive, needy plants.
If you are looking for fragrant flowering perennials, there aren't a lot from which to choose. Chocolate cosmos, some lilies, some varieties of tall bearded iris, wallflowers, stock, and many peonies are fragrant.
I hope this short guide will help you in your selection. Remember, to look and perform their best, phlox should have a fairly rich soil that never dries out completely. Mulch the roots to keep them cool. Divide them when they get thick or spindly with few flowers. Pinch early in the season so they won't get too tall and floppy. That's all there is to it. If you like maintaining flowers, you'll love phlox.
Whew! I'll try to to be a bit more succinct with this one. Let me know how I did.
My sister has a lovely cutting garden. It is 10' x 30'. Spring and summer grows beautiful flowers, but oh the weeds! Can you give us any help with products to stop the weeds and not hurt the flowers that come back every year. We don't want to hurt the last 2-3 years of work that we have invested. We have put down 2-3 inches of a product called "weed wampum" mulch, that helps but it is still every other day of pulling mostly nut grass. Also what would you recommend to keep the earwigs down and not let them eat the daisies up.
These flowers are important as they are for vases at our family’s cemeteries.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Dorlene
Dorlene,
Depending on the timing of when the perennial flowers start growing, there may or may not be anything you can do to get rid of the weeds permanently. But I will share a few ideas with you that may help.
You should be able to control annual weeds, those that grow from seeds every year, with a spring and then a fall application of a pre-emergent herbicide like Preen. This will prevent weed seeds from sprouting. It also means that you won't be able to start any flowers from seed in this bed. But you can plant transplants without harm.
For the tough perennial weeds like the nut grass that you mention you'll have to either cover or shield the growing plants from sprays containing glyphosate (Roundup, etc.). If you can spray before the plants emerge in the spring and then again after the foliage dies back after frost in the fall, you can control some species of weeds with that method. For the nut grass you might have to use a paintbrush to apply the herbicide directly to the weeds so it doesn't drift onto your desirable plants.
Mulching will help weed seeds from get a foothold in your garden but won't eradicate tough weeds. But don't neglect doing it, it's good for the soil. I don't recommend weed barrier cloth, it's difficult to use and creates as many problems as it solves. And unfortunately, a lot of the best control of weeds is just the persistent and timely pulling of them.
I hope this helps you deal with your challenge. Good luck and let me know what you decide to do. If you have a clean, non-weedy plot of ground to start anew, it might be your best bet!
I still receive quite a few questions along this line. After all the preaching I've done, after all the sermons I've delivered on the needs and dislikes of our native trees, I would think that there isn't a person left in the Rogue Valley who hasn't heard about the subject. But I'm posting this for newcomers to our area and others who might not be aware of the possible dangers posed to our native plants from frequent summer watering:
We live just outside of Ruch, on gravelly loam with mixed forest on our property. We have started mowing an area in front of the house for a lawn and fire break.Now my wife has heard that if we water a lawn that the oaks will suffer and perhaps die. These are mature trees and filter the hot western sun, so we don't want to lose them.
Thanks for your help, Rich
Established oaks cannot take the regular, shallow waterings that lawns require. You will eventually drown the oaks. Some may live on for years, but they will eventually suffer root rot and succumb.
A better idea would be to establish your firebreak with no plants under the oaks or try to use the most drought tolerant groundcovers that would only require occasional watering, which should not harm the oaks.
A few plants to consider: Ribes viburnifolium (may need to be kept trimmed), kinnikinnick, Potentilla neumanniana and hypericum. You will have to be careful to plant in fall and watch the first year or two to get them estabished.
It is, of course, safest to not water at all under our native trees, but those are the best choices I have if you must plant. Good Luck!
I have often had people bring up the subject of the oaks on the east side of Medford as examples of native trees peacefully co-existing with lawn watering. Although there are trees there that appear to be doing well under those conditions, I caution everyone to be aware that many of the older trees are in decline if one looks at them critically and that the healthiest survivors are trees that started receiving water when they were young, vigorously growing trees. The oaks are more tolerant of water than madrones or ponderosa pines, but are not good subjects for lawns. Many of those trees have received professional care and help with the removal of mistletoe, which is a sign that the tree is under stress. I believe that most, if not all oaks will eventually perish from the cultural practices associated with maintaining a lawn underneath them and caution against the repeated use of herbicides in their root zones.
The garden continues to be a joy during the cooler weather. It is amazing how well plants grow when not under the duress of excessive heat. It's not just me who shuts down during those triple-digit days!
I hope all is well in your garden. If not, e-mail me and I'll do my best to get back to you. Until next time, take care and start thinking about that fall and winter garden.
Summer is the best time to prepare for a new lawn. In my opinion, September is the best month to seed or sod a new lawn. Although I neither favor nor encourage large lawns and their attendant use of resources, a small lawn area is a great place to play or relax. Ridding the area of weeds now will prepare your lawn area for success.
Here's a few tips for using any glyphosate herbicide such as Roundup. Used properly you can control many persistent perennial weeds. But used incorrectly, you may be facing the same weeds in your new lawn as you have now. Although this question dealt with morning glory specifically, the info applies to many weeds and invasive grasses as well.
Could you please tell me the best way to eliminate Morning Glory? We live in a mobile park in the Talent area and have a whole backyard full of it, as well as Ivy. Thus far we have cut it down and the next step is to spray the area with Round Up; but will that kill it off for good? Our goal is to be able to clear the whole area and plant grass. Thanks in advance for any advice you are able to provide!
Kind Regards,
Julie
In order to control field bindweed with Roundup, it is going to be necessary to spray it at the proper time and in the proper condition. The proper time is when the plant is in flower. It will then have slowed its rampant growth and may absorb enough material to kill it.
The proper condition is after the plant has been irrigated and is not under drought. If the plant is dry it is likely to just burn the foliage without taking in enough material to kill it roots and all.
Use the proper dilution rate. Do not think that a stronger solution will work better. That works against killing the plant. Be prepared for some re-growth. After spraying, wait several weeks and begin watering. Spray anything that pops back up. After that, if some should reappear in the lawn, it is likely coming from seed and can be quickly pulled before it gets established. Keeping the lawn moist during the initial establishment will help keep the bindweed down as it favors dry locations.
In any case, throw in a little good luck and you should have good control.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
Here it is the last day of June! The weather has turned summery and we're getting the smoke from forest fires to our south. In spite of the smoke, the garden looks pretty good with just a couple of exceptions. I am in a hurry to start eating all the produce I've planned and planted and it seems like it's taking forever for the garden to get going!
Here's a question from a reader that may have an impact on all of us who grow fruit or flowering trees:
Help! My cherry tree has borers. What can I do to save it?
First, I hope the Gardening Gods are smiling on you and your tree while handling this problem. There are four things that you can do to try to control borers: 1.) Nothing. Trees that are in good health can handle the occasional borer attack. To ensure your tree is in good health, be sure that the ground around it is fertile, there is a mulch over the roots but not up over the trunk, and apply a spray of liquid seaweed to the soil and foliage to help boost the tree's immune system. 2.) Mechanical. Using a sharp, pointed wire, poke into the borer holes, tracing the path the borer larvae took until you kill the larvae. Be careful with this approach to not do more damage to the cambium layer than the borers do! 3.) Organic. There are parasitic wasps that attack the eggs that are laid at the base of the tree. The Lady Bug on West Main Street in Medford can give you detailed info on timing of applications, etc. You may also want to try the pheromones that make it impossible for the male moth to locate the female moth so they can't lay eggs on your tree. 4.) Chemical. Sevin has shown the ability to protect the tree from larvae crawling up the trunk. It likely won't kill any that are already in the tree. It is most effective on trunks that aren't regularly washed down by irrigation water so that the chemical will have a long residual effect. In any case, a little luck thrown into the mix won't hurt, either! Stan
1.) Nothing. Trees that are in good health can handle the occasional borer attack. To ensure your tree is in good health, be sure that the ground around it is fertile, there is a mulch over the roots but not up over the trunk, and apply a spray of liquid seaweed to the soil and foliage to help boost the tree's immune system.
2.) Mechanical. Using a sharp, pointed wire, poke into the borer holes, tracing the path the borer larvae took until you kill the larvae. Be careful with this approach to not do more damage to the cambium layer than the borers do!
3.) Organic. There are parasitic wasps that attack the eggs that are laid at the base of the tree. The Lady Bug on West Main Street in Medford can give you detailed info on timing of applications, etc. You may also want to try the pheromones that make it impossible for the male moth to locate the female moth so they can't lay eggs on your tree.
4.) Chemical. Sevin has shown the ability to protect the tree from larvae crawling up the trunk. It likely won't kill any that are already in the tree. It is most effective on trunks that aren't regularly washed down by irrigation water so that the chemical will have a long residual effect.
In any case, a little luck thrown into the mix won't hurt, either!
