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G Street Bar and Grill

It is early Sunday night when my dining companion and I enter the G Street Bar and Grill.

The sushi chefs are making hand rolls, the aroma of french fries wafts from the kitchen — and a duo of belly dancers gyrate to hip hop music. The boom box is so loud, it reverberates in our hungry bellies.

Between the East-West menu, the mishmash of seating and the variety of original artwork ranging from stylized murals to the nature scenes adorning each booth, this place desperately needs a cohesive makeover.

The net effect is a tilt-a-whirl world reminiscent of a Baz Lurhmann film. My beau wants to head for the door. But there's something oddly appealing about the crazy jumble. It hints of culinary adventure. I want to stay.

He graciously concedes, transfixed by the undulating bejeweled women of all shapes and ages.

"This is the weirdest place we've ever been to," he says, as we slide into a ringside booth. "Might as well have a view."

I suggest he order the chicken soba noodles ($7). Since he's being such a good sport, I want my soup-loving beau to order a dish he'll like.

But in keeping with the wacky vibe, I select the strangest item on the non-Japanese side of the menu — Halibut Foster ($15.95). The chef has morphed a fish dish into an homage to the famous dessert. My 8-ounce halibut filet will arrive covered in caramelized banana wedges and brown sugar liquor. This could be killer good. Or an appetite killer. I tag on an order of agedashi tofu ($4.50), just in case.

Our salads arrive first. A melange of raw broccoli and greens is adorned with croutons that are beyond crunchy. They are jawbreakers. And there is no hint of blue cheese in the dressing. Uh oh. Not promising.

But the agedashi tofu contains little fluffy pillows of heavenly soft tofu served in a feather light broth. Much better.

My beau enjoys his giant bowl of buckwheat noodle soup. He slurps merrily away — especially after I suggested he add the remaining tofu broth once we'd finished the agedashi.

The halibut filet is smaller than expected, and has a tropical flavor due to the bananas. Its mood is very Hawaiian. If the mashed potato side is too heavy an accompaniment, and it is, that is my fault for ordering it. I don't remember what other potato options are offered. But rice would better serve the flavors of the dish. However, the sauteed veggies are perfectly seasoned and tender-crisp. They are, in fact, my favorite part of the meal.

Until the creme brulee ($4.95).

I find it hard to wrap my mind around this sad fact. But my beau informs me that he's never before experienced this divine dessert with the crunchy caramelized lid.

"It's like a very creamy, rich pudding," I say. "The chef sometimes uses a mini blow torch to caramelize the sugar on top."

Tools? He's intrigued. And becomes an instant convert as soon as his spoon cracks the golden crust and dips into the creamy custard.

Would we go back? Maybe on another second Sunday of the month, when it's belly dancing night again.

— Sanne Specht