Almond flour has played a larger role lately in my cooking.

It started with “chaffles,” the topic of a February blog post. Mesmerized by merging almond flour, cheese and egg into a sort of protein-rich waffle, I couldn’t wait to try more variations on the concept popularized by Paleo and keto dieters.

A collection of recipes from chef Rocco DiSpirito’s new cookbook prompted me earlier this month to offer his gluten-free alternative to chicken soup with dumplings. And as I was planning a make-ahead soup supper last weekend, Rocco’s version of cheddar biscuits resembling the Red Lobster staple seemed a fitting side dish.

My rationale ran that the almond flour would be more filling than wheat flour after a day of hiking. And the biscuits themselves seemed more suited to reheating, particularly if underbaked initially. Although fresh-from-the-oven biscuits are delightful, day-old biscuits tend to fall flat on my palate.

And the reheated almond flour biscuits, indeed, tasted almost as fresh as freshly baked. Sampling one hot out of the oven, I remarked that these biscuits melt in the mouth and are tender almost to the point of falling apart between the fingertips. After reheating, my biscuits got a drizzle of melted butter seasoned with thyme and paprika.

While there is a faint note of baking powder that emerges in these and other keto recipes with almond flour, it’s counteracted with the fresh chives and a sprinkling of more cheese on top. I used smoked cheddar in mine.

Cheddar and Chive Biscuits

1 3/4 cups almond flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon Celtic sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (preferably grass-fed), cubed

1 large egg, beaten

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the almond flour, baking powder, sea salt and pepper until combined. Add the butter and press into flour mixture using your fingers until pea-sized pieces form.

Add the egg and sour cream and stir until just combined. Add the cheddar and chives and stir gently to incorporate. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Drop 6 biscuits (about 1/3 cup each) onto prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown and puffed, for 8 to 10 minutes. Allow to cool on pan for 5 minutes before serving warm.

Makes 6 servings.

— Recipe from “Rocco’s Keto Comfort Food Diet” by Rocco DiSpirito (Rodale Books; March 2020).